So, following the good advice of a few online how-to’s (e.g., convert photo to line drawing) I found my way through to a printable model that resulted in a unique birthday gift for a good friend.
Here’s how:
Step 1: Select a high-resolution photo of your subject’s face. I used one in jpg format.
Step 2: Desaturate the image and then use the Difference of Gaussian filter to find the edges and create the line drawing. Save as a jpg.
Step 3: Import the line drawing into Inkscape and use the Trace Bitmap to create an svg file.
Step 4: Import the svg file into Tinkercad and create the 3D
3D print a personalized cookie cutter from an stl file
file. Then export as an stl file.
Step 5: Import the stl file into Cura and configure the print settings.
Step 6: 3D print the file.
Step 7: Make cookie dough (I used the Sugar Cookie recipe on p.612 of the Fannie Farmer Cookbook), heat the oven, and stamp out the cookies.
Step 8: Eat and be happy.
You, too, can make your own likeness in cookie form. Yum!
A few things I learned:
Creating contiguous lines in the line drawing makes it easier to print a template that will easily cut out a shape; too many points make it a bit more difficult to print the template.
Check to make sure you have some distance between the walls of the shape and the details of the face. You may have to experiment and print a few different models.
Fine points make it harder to remove the dough from the template once you’ve cut it out.
It’s hard to wash 3D printed templates; the layers make it difficult to prevent build-up in the crevasses.
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As just about everyone knows there are a lot of families leaving Syria and coming to Toronto. Recently we reached out to Lakeshore Syrian Connection, a local group who will be helping a family come to the New Toronto community with an idea about how we could help out. One of the things that could make coming to a new city a bit easier is having some hand tools. Buying new tools can be expensive, but many people have some tools lying around that they might be able to easily pass on to hands that need them.
So, we’re going to run a tool drive and see if we can gather enough tools to gift newcomer refugee families with a small kit to help fix little things around the house.
Chances are, most families coming to Toronto will be settling in apartments or shared living spaces, so we aren’t looking for large items like table saws, lathes, or drill presses – despite those being very exciting tools to have donated.
Maybe you have some extra tools lying around the house – or have a relative with too many to use. Of course, new tools are also welcome if you want to bring those in as well.
We are partnering with the 1st Lakeshore Scouts to get things underway. The Scout group will be running their annual Dirt Drive to fundraise and it’s a chance for some symbiotic community giving-back.
We are looking for the following new, gently used, or in good working order tools, for example:
Hammer
Hand saw
Screw drivers
Level
Square
Pliers
Snips
Hand drill
Drill bits
Tape measures
Clamps
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We are also going to be building some simple tool boxes to hold the tool donation and will be running a make-a-toolbox workshop: you, too, can make your very own toolbox!
We’ll have a number of pre-cut templates that can be bought on-site (for a small fee) and assembled with tools we’ll have there. The toolboxes can be made in an hour or two depending on how much you will be able to do on your own. Of course, we’ll be around and able to lend a hand or give some advice.
Looking around the shop we saw just too much obtanium for the available space. So, in order to clear out a bit of room and also to kick-start a new project, we made a little wooden toolbox.
Obtanium becomes Usefulonium
This model is very straight-forward using 1/2″ sides and bottom, with 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ pine rails. The bottom and sides are flush against the sides. This allows the fastener screws to also act as strength reinforcements for the bottom. This does run the risk of splitting the 1/2″ bottom if the pilot holes aren’t carefully aligned, but there should still be enough material to work with.
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It’s possible to add another rail on top of the 3 and a half inch height in this one, but this model does make it easier to put tools in and pull them out without knocking against them.
We recently acquired a Silhouette Cameo (which was also recently reviewed by Make Magazine in Issue 48, the Ultimate Guide to Desktop Fabrication). It’s a pretty cool crafting tool with which it’s fast and easy to cut paper, vinyl, fabric, and a few other materials. One of the kits that came along with the unit was an etching kit. We tried it out and etched some glass-ware to see what we could do.
The first thing to know about using a vinyl cutter to etch glass is that you don’t want to be too-smart-by-half. It’s easy to think that you’ll be creating curlicues and filigree but that’s just silly. Block letters and bold patterns are much easier to transfer and work with. Fancy-schmancy designs are a bit too tricky. Not that it’s not possible to do fine work, just that it’s hard to hook and transfer if you have too-fine a line or too-delicate an island. Any time you have a section that is not connected to any other section you’re going to end up finagling dots and wee tiny bits. And that can be very frustrating, especially if you have the misfortune to have removed some of the glue when hooking out the negative spaces of the vinyl.
Hooking is when you remove the pieces of the vinyl that you don’t want. There’s a little hook that you use to pick the pieces out. The trouble is two-fold. One, the knife doesn’t always cut completely through the vinyl, which means that there’s a bit of an effort needed to separate the two sides of the cut. Second, the finer the cut-out, the more difficult it will be to hook out and the higher the chance of removing the glue on the underside of the vinyl. If there isn’t enough glue on the vinyl when it’s transferred to the glass it will not stick properly and the final as-etched lines won’t be very clean. That can be disappointing, especially if you’ve spent a lot of time getting the hooking right.
So, don’t get too-smart-by-half.
Another thing to keep in mind is the curvature of the surface you’re trying to etch. If your stencil is too big, the vinyl too stiff, and the glass is too curved, the stencil won’t stick properly and the lines won’t be clean. Thinner vinyl, bigger fonts, and simple patterns result in better etching.
But once the hooking is done and the vinyl is transferred to the glass, it‘s pretty easy to apply the etching cream and get the design onto the glass, The etching cream can be re-used as long as it doesn’t dry out, so there’s a working window of about one or two minutes maximum. Apply, wait, scrape off, wipe remaining cream off with a paper towel, and wash from the glass. That’s it. Pretty easy. Every time the quantity of DHT increases in body, the hair follicles are affected. viagra in österreich Apart from this, regular consumption of ginseng helps lower blood glucose canada super viagra level. levitra online Follow the remedy method as indicated, and maintain healthy diet. All get cialis cheap effective ED cures should work this way; there is no safe way to instantly give a man lost potency of achieving an erection during the love-session.
And, it looks nice when you’ve created something that didn’t exist before you made that little bit of effort.
New Toronto Makeshore Etched Beer MugSpend, Save, Give for allowance and earned money.Applying the etching creme
How quickly a year passes. Last Christmas an Ultimaker2 finally arrived and since it’s shown up it’s printed about 350 hours of fun. Here are the top 9 lessons that have resulted from the first year of using this particular printer.
Don’t Print a Piece of Wood
This seems like it should be self-evident, but it’s not. When a printer first shows up, the tendency is to print everything. But there is just no point in printing something that you can easily get from elsewhere. If you have a piece of wood—or a cup, or an old yoghurt container, or whatnot—there is no sense wasting time or effort on 3D printing it. Instead, try printing something you might not otherwise be able to make, such as a jointed toy or something fun.
Slow Down, Heat Up
It takes time to figure out tolerances and what works well, but the biggest thing I found for printing PLA is to slow the printer speed down and make the nozzle hot. I have found that 220 degrees is hot enough to prevent clogging but not so hot that it melts too much, although that has happened once or twice with some specialty filament. Slowing the Ultimaker2 down is different than using a finer print setting, so don’t get confused between print resolution and print speed. It’s still possible to print with a higher resolution and do it fast. I’ve noticed two main problems with this particular printer that may or may not be the same as others: travel speed and retraction.
The Ultimaker2 (at least the one I have) has a tendency to travel fast from point to point. This occasionally results in the nozzle hitting the filament that has already been laid down, lifting it off the bed. This often means I have to abort the print, which can be very frustrating. It is possible to adjust the travel speed in the advanced settings, but it takes a bit of getting used to in order to look for and adjust the travel speed.
Settings: Bed, Glue, Filament, Tension
Unfortunately, you’ll need to spend time with your printer finding the best settings—and sometimes even then you’ll have to adjust as you go.
The paper test for bed leveling seems to be popular and easy. You adjust your bed/nozzle settings to close the distance between the two, and then stick a piece of paper between them to check when it gets snagged by the tension; back it off a bit and that’s the distance one should be from the other for good printing. This method is pretty reliable because you can get a clear feeling for just how close to the bed the nozzle is. You will be able to feel the tension between nozzle and bed better than you will be able to measure the distance by sight.
Sticky beds are necessary if you want your print to be successful. There are a few options, including blue masking tape, hair-spray, or glue sticks. I use the blue tape for 3D pens, but since this printer has a heated bed it’s not necessary. I’ve never used hair-spray because I’m concerned that as an aerosol some errant particles might find their way into stepper motors or worm gears; not a risk I fancy taking. Using a stick of glue and spreading it with a foam brush works. I wet the brush with a water spray bottle (never pointing it at the printer) to spread the glue around on the bed. I still occasionally have prints pull off the bed, but that’s usually when I haven’t put down enough glue. A little will do, but it does need to be enough. Brims, rafts and supports are also really useful for anytime you need that extra bit of support.
I’ve used PLA filament for all my prints so far and am generally happy with it. Although there are a few spools of ABS around, I haven’t printed with it yet because I don’t have the best ventilation going on right now. The first project will definitely be an eNABLE gauntlet, for which I also have two hardware kits.
I have also found that it’s a good idea to have a bunch of different filament options around. It’s much nicer to be able to print in white, black, or red—or any of the other dozens of colours that are available.
I confess that tension is something I continue to have trouble with. My printer uses a Bowden tube set-up, which means that the motor driving the extrusion is 60 cm or so away from the hot end of the nozzle. If the nozzle gets the least bit clogged, the driver motor quite easily starts to chew the filament up, and then everything gets right borked from there. Apparently achieving the correct tension is quite dependent on the consistency of the filament diameter, but it still feels like a hit-and-miss for me. This is definitely one of the most frustrating fails, though, mostly because it happens when it’s unexpected. Which leads to…
Try, Try, and Try Again
No surprise – it’s unlikely you’ll be as successful as you want. It’s also important to get a sense of what’s possible, and where you either need to make adjustments or give up and move on. And sometimes you’ll come to see the answer to a problem several projects later. Voronoi hearts, for instance. Next time I try a Voronoi heart I will use a brim (a _really good idea for prints where you have a small surface touching the bed), slow down, and print at around 220 degrees.
But it’s important to keep trying because a) you’ll end up with a bunch of fun stuff you’ve printed successfully, and b) you’ll learn and get better. Double-plus good.
Experiment With Abandon
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It’s also important to experiment in your tools. I got some super-thin spatulas to help lift well-stuck prints from the bed. Couldn’t think of doing it without them, now that I have them. They really make it heaps easier when you have to gently lift an obstinate print from the bed and it just isn’t cooperating. I also have a bunch of small files. These make it easy to touch up the prints quickly, and they don’t break like my blasted thumb-nail does when I try to pry unwanted bits off.
Not Everyone Is As Excited As Me
I totally confess: I thought everyone would be as jazzed about this as I am. But, what I’ve found is that most people aren’t as interested as me at all. The few people who are interested, however, tend to be enthusiasts, who punch above their weight interest-wise.
This is not really that unexpected. The current state of 3D printing is still pretty nascent and it’s hard to print anything big or realistic without an awful lot of money, time, patience, or happy mix of all three. It’s quite likely that in the coming years the state of 3D printing will improve and printing multi-colour, finely detailed, fast prints that are bigger than your forearm will be commonplace. Until then, this is definitely still the domain of the nerds. Which is fine with me.
Take; Give
I have benefited greatly—if not almost exclusively—from the many dedicated, clever, creative, talented, and generous people at the vanguard of this movement. I am deeply grateful for the magnanimity of the community. There are so many models and designs that are already available freely that it is kind-of mind-boggling. And the free tools like Blender, MeshMixer, SketchUp, TinkerCAD, or so many others make it extremely easy to model objects in 3D. Not that I’m all that good at that part yet.
The other side of having access to so many quality resources for free, though, is that there is an incumbent responsibility to give back. So far I haven’t been able to post to communities with my dazzling fresh, new designs—mostly because I have none. But what I have been able to do is to print and give away the prints that I’ve made. I find people mostly like them, and there are dozens if not hundreds of different simple things that can be easily printed and given away. And as a makerspace we’re supporting other local companies, like Matter and Form, Structur3d, Tiko, Mosaic, and ReDeTec by buying their gear. Some has arrived, some not yet; but the anticipation is palpable around here.
Learn From The Community
Speaking of the community, it’s also a great place to learn. Second confession: I don’t really do this enough.
One of the best things about getting into 3D printing now is the relative maturity of the technology available to communities of users or tinkers. Blogging and search engines make finding self-help near-indescribably easier than in the days of fanzines, message boards, and loud modems. Searching for community hubs and help forums has, I think, given me back years of my life stolen while trying to figure out why a print is not working. Thanks, community. You rock.
3D Pens Are Frustrating, and Fun
We also acquired some 3D pens, which are instant attention magnets. They do work a bit differently than conventional printers, but really only because the extruding nozzle is controlled by meCode and not gCode.
Some people use 3D pens like 2D pens and draw blobs of goo. Others, however, are brilliant and create unique, beautiful sketches in the air. It’s rare, but nice when you are surprised by someone else’s inspiration.
Unfortunately, though, 3D pens are finicky and a bit frustrating. They are fairly straightforward, but fixing clogs, etc., really requires taking the whole blasted contraption apart. Ok if you’re into tinkering, but a right pain if you’re not.
And that’s it. That’s all we’ve learned from a year of 3D printing. Well, not really. But that’s the top 9.
We’ve had some action lately building little free libraries.
The basic model is based on a typical 1/4″ or 1/2″ 4′ x 8′ piece of one-side-good plywood cut into 1′ x 4′ lengths. From there it’s easy to cut out the backs and sides to make a simple box, roof, and a shelf. Cedar shingles to finish off the roof are a nice touch, and pretty easy to apply. A simple piece of angled trim makes a nice cap rail for the roof line. As per usual, we’re grateful for our good friends Frank and Dave at Lakeshore Lumber for supplying the wood and hardware, and even going so far as to help cut the 4′ lengths.
The recent addition of two tools (a square corner-set found at ReStore and an air compressor with nailing head) make all the difference in putting this together. Seriously, the nailing head and the air compressor make this so much easier. Trying to tap the nails in while holding everything even would be a total pain. Gluing the joints before setting them also helps with stability.
The larger one measures 12″ x 19 1/2″ x 24″ and needed some extra support for the bottom; hence the width-spanning brace underneath that both adds extra rigidity to the base and creates a housing for a set-post. Some simple halved-joints made it easy to create the post housing. However, this also reduces workload purchase levitra cute-n-tiny.com of the right ventricle and eventually to the systemic system of the body. Person may have sildenafil online india to treat the pain does not necessarily treat the root of your condition and your age. price of viagra tablet Cure to erectile dysfunction/impotence Erectile dysfunction can be taken 30 prior minutes beginning any sexually movement and the impact of all the Kamagra 100mg oral jelly as this most preferred dose. If the patient wants to increase or decrease the dosage of the pill as per the guidance and also you need to avoid taking more than one dose in a 24 hour period as this can lead to pain and symptoms in other parts of the body creates an enticing environment for diseases, generika viagra illnesses, lowering the immune system and allergies to thrive in.
Next-time additions could include dormers, skylights, lights for night-time browsing, or maybe even a Little Free Library LibraryBox…?…
Some simple halved-joints make creating a supported base and post housing a 2-for-1 double-plus.
Well, phew! MakerFestival Toronto has come and gone and we had a great time at the splendid Toronto Reference Library for 2015’s Extravaganza event.
The New Toronto Booth was busy non-stop with heaps and heaps of visitors who poked, prodded, dialed, peered, printed, and made. The most engaging activities were the 3D pens, the cellphone microscopes, the penny batteries, and the analogue synth hooked up to the anvil-box amp. A lot of people asked about the 3D printing examples we had and many asked about the types of material that could be used.
We also conducted an entirely non-scientific poll—no r’s were chi-squared and there were only 36 respondents—but we still collected some useful feedback about the potential for getting a makerspace going in New Toronto. The biggest outcome we found suggested that adults wanted classes for themselves and their kids on 3D printing, soldering and electronics, and a place to work on projects with power tools and other action. Unfortunately, very few respondents said they’d be willing to pay for a membership. Fortunately, just as many respondents would pay for something. So, that’s a start.
There was less interest in the little free libraries that were all ready to sell. Could’ve been that they were a bit cost-prohibitive, but it doesn’t seem like the festival audience was generally that-much into spending money. The skateboard made using the Roarockit thin air press kit, the papercraft and cards, and the keychains lovingly made by one of the youngest members all generated less interest than expected.
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But, it was a great experience and a wonderful opportunity to talk to all sorts of makers who came out to the Extravaganza event. Anecdotally we found that there were a good number of people who wanted a place to work, and were interested in participating. In fact, within days some follow up-up emails have started to trickle in.
Looks like we might just start to get something rolling, here…
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Come by and say hi.
We made a skateboard using the Roarockit thin air press (TAP) kit.
It took longer than anticipated, and there were a few surprises along the way, but the end product is a successful pintail skateboard that is sturdy and smooth.
The deck is all from the Roarockit kit, and this model incorporates a piece of red veneer as the centre layer for a bit of flash. They said the dye permeated right-through, but it didn’t turn out that way when actually cut into. Nevertheless, the end result is a clearly visible streak of red in the middle layer of the deck.
The trucks, wheels, and bearings were all courtesy of the Longboard Living skate shop in Kensington Market.
Deck screws, helmet, and a good bit of friendly advice thanks to CJ Skatepark and school.
Using the TAP bag from the kit was pretty easy. The first surprise came, though, upon reading the internal instructions, which say to glue the first three layers, then the second three layers, then the last two layers. This increased the amount of time needed to complete the deck by several days. The expectation was that the deck would be glued-up after eight hours; the reality was that it took three eight-hour sessions with the TAP bag. Not bad, but unexpected.
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Sanding down the edges was also pretty easy, but did take determination.
Sanding down the deck surface took several sessions as well. Starting with 80 grit, then 120, then 220, then 300 and finally 400 produced a beautiful surface on the maple veneer.
The finish for this deck was spar varnish. Stinky stuff. Not sure it will be used in the next deck. The biggest challenge was getting a smooth surface without burning through the layer; unfortunately this was not an entirely successful result. There are a few spots where the layers show through but generally speaking it’s a nice result.
This deck also incorporates a vinyl decal. To make sure that the deck was preserved properly, the decal only went on after three layers of finish. That ensured that the deck was completely sealed, and there was enough varnish to even out the drips and what-not. There are another 4 layers of varnish on top of the decal, and the profile on the deck face is almost smooth – only a wee bit of a bump where the decal is applied.
Sanding of each layer was 220 – 400 grit. The final layer was sanded up to 2000 grit, which I obtained through the most awesomest of stores, Lee Valley Tools.
With a bit of patience and perseverance we were able to get some great pictures of everyday stuff like paper towel, sand, milk weed seeds, snake skin (ok — not so everyday).
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