After about a year of trial and error, it’s time to post about our most recent tool, the Glowforge laser printer.
The wait to get one was long – years. The record-setting 2015 crowdsourced fundraising was a smashing success, and I jumped on with a pledge for a Glowforge plus. Months of waiting became years of waiting. Delay followed delay.
I eventually gave up hope that I would actually see my order. It seemed that despite Canada being a major trading partner with the United States, shipping here was a stretch too far.
And then one day while I just happened to be working at home, a knock came upon the door. At long, long last the Glowforge had arrived.
Here’s the latest project: a little skateboard for our youngest maker.
First Coat of Finish
Applying the Paint
Painting the Stencil
Working on the Finish
Grip Tape and Hardware
This project was built using a kit from Roarockit. It is a pretty straight-forward vacuum sealed bag pressing veneer onto a Styrofoam mold. But the kit sure makes it easier to put together.
We started with a bunch of laminated pieces of mahogany, which were all part of the kit. We took the laminates and glued them together on top of a Styrofoam form and then vacuum sealed them in an air-tight press.
We started with three layers first, then another two layers, and finally the last two layers.
First 3 layers in the air press
Veneer vacuum sealed onto styrofoam
Thin air press: 3 layers of veneer
Once everything was glued up and we had a solid deck we had to sculpt the edges with a rasp. After creating a consistent edge we started sanding the deck down. First we used 60 grit, then 120, 220, 350.
Glueing up the edges
Using glue to fill gaps
Rasping the edges
Edges being finished with a rasp
Smooth edges are better edges
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The paint was chosen by our littlest maker who decided that the deck should be blue. He also decided to decorate it with the wonderful Santa Cruz Screaming Hand drawn by the fantastic Jim Phillips. We made a stencil using a cutter and carefully applied it to the deck before adding the finish. (Apologies to the artist as not all the detail transferred in this image.)
Applying paint to the deck
Giving the deck a second coat
Nice, painted deck
Applying the stencil
Paining over the stencil
Painted stencil on the deck
Then we used polyurethane as a finish and sanded down 6 or 7 coats using using 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit to give it a nice, smooth finish.
We hustled on down to Longboard Living in Kensington Market to get some help with the trucks, wheels, and hardware and they hooked us right up.
We applied the grip tape, drilled the pilot holes, and mounted the trucks and wheels.
Filing the grip tape edges
Grip tape done
Drilling pilot holes
Ready for trucks
Done
Managed to get a road pizza on the first tour around the block, but nothing worthwhile comes without a little sacrifice.
We went out to the Sam Smith Farmers’ Market again today and had a great time!
Our new project this week was the Boo-gly eyes made from LEDs and ping pong balls (thanks to Everyday with Rachael Ray for the inspiration).
Make these scary eyeballs from ping pong balls and LEDs
The stomp rockets were once again a big hit with the kids, but it seems we need to find a convenient bellows-action hook-up for re-inflating the launch pod (pop bottle).
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Despite the early-morning rain the sun came out and the market enjoyed a glorious fall morning.
We plan on being at the last few markets of the season, which is until the end of October.
We’re planning on being at the Sam Smith Farmers’ Market this weekend to launch the Tool Drive idea and get out with our neighbours!
The Sam Smith Farmers’ Market is on the skate trail in Colonel Samuel Smith Park, just south of Humber College’s Lakeshore campus in south Etobicoke (what we locals like to call New Toronto).
As mentioned in an earlier post (Toolbox Workshop – Update) we want to collect spare, gently used hand tools. If you have any extra pliers, hammers, etc (see the linked post for more details) then please bring them by.
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There will be kits for sale if you want to make your own project at home, so bring some cash (no credit or debit). We will also have some tools and a bit or workspace on-hand for a few makers who just can’t wait to get building.
We are looking for the following new, gently used, or in good working order tools, for example:
Hammer
Hand saw
Screw drivers
Level
Square
Pliers
Snips
Hand drill
Drill bits
Tape measures
Clamps
We have already started things off by building and filling one toolbox with some new and reasonably-used (i.e., still in good working condition) hand tools.
This toolbox is all ready to be donated to a needy family.
We have been talking with the good folks at the Sam Smith Farmer’s Market (http://samsmithmarket.ca) and are planning on bringing some tool box kits to a booth at the market in the coming weeks. This is an opportunity to come out, buy or make a kit, and maybe even drop off some tools as a donation to those who need them.
These kits are slightly modified from the one shown in the original post; these toolboxes are slightly cantilevered to hang more naturally against the leg. It looks a bit counter-intuitive but the off-set centre handle and the low-rise front panel make it very easy to throw a whack of project tools in the box quickly and still carry it with ease. Toolboxes that have handles on-centre force the carrier to hold his or her arm own arm unnaturally proud from the hip, which causes fatigue and sometimes dents in the wall or bruises on the leg.
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As just about everyone knows there are a lot of families leaving Syria and coming to Toronto. Recently we reached out to Lakeshore Syrian Connection, a local group who will be helping a family come to the New Toronto community with an idea about how we could help out. One of the things that could make coming to a new city a bit easier is having some hand tools. Buying new tools can be expensive, but many people have some tools lying around that they might be able to easily pass on to hands that need them.
So, we’re going to run a tool drive and see if we can gather enough tools to gift newcomer refugee families with a small kit to help fix little things around the house.
Chances are, most families coming to Toronto will be settling in apartments or shared living spaces, so we aren’t looking for large items like table saws, lathes, or drill presses – despite those being very exciting tools to have donated.
Maybe you have some extra tools lying around the house – or have a relative with too many to use. Of course, new tools are also welcome if you want to bring those in as well.
We are partnering with the 1st Lakeshore Scouts to get things underway. The Scout group will be running their annual Dirt Drive to fundraise and it’s a chance for some symbiotic community giving-back.
We are looking for the following new, gently used, or in good working order tools, for example:
Hammer
Hand saw
Screw drivers
Level
Square
Pliers
Snips
Hand drill
Drill bits
Tape measures
Clamps
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We are also going to be building some simple tool boxes to hold the tool donation and will be running a make-a-toolbox workshop: you, too, can make your very own toolbox!
We’ll have a number of pre-cut templates that can be bought on-site (for a small fee) and assembled with tools we’ll have there. The toolboxes can be made in an hour or two depending on how much you will be able to do on your own. Of course, we’ll be around and able to lend a hand or give some advice.
Looking around the shop we saw just too much obtanium for the available space. So, in order to clear out a bit of room and also to kick-start a new project, we made a little wooden toolbox.
Obtanium becomes Usefulonium
This model is very straight-forward using 1/2″ sides and bottom, with 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ pine rails. The bottom and sides are flush against the sides. This allows the fastener screws to also act as strength reinforcements for the bottom. This does run the risk of splitting the 1/2″ bottom if the pilot holes aren’t carefully aligned, but there should still be enough material to work with.
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It’s possible to add another rail on top of the 3 and a half inch height in this one, but this model does make it easier to put tools in and pull them out without knocking against them.
We’ve had some action lately building little free libraries.
The basic model is based on a typical 1/4″ or 1/2″ 4′ x 8′ piece of one-side-good plywood cut into 1′ x 4′ lengths. From there it’s easy to cut out the backs and sides to make a simple box, roof, and a shelf. Cedar shingles to finish off the roof are a nice touch, and pretty easy to apply. A simple piece of angled trim makes a nice cap rail for the roof line. As per usual, we’re grateful for our good friends Frank and Dave at Lakeshore Lumber for supplying the wood and hardware, and even going so far as to help cut the 4′ lengths.
The recent addition of two tools (a square corner-set found at ReStore and an air compressor with nailing head) make all the difference in putting this together. Seriously, the nailing head and the air compressor make this so much easier. Trying to tap the nails in while holding everything even would be a total pain. Gluing the joints before setting them also helps with stability.
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Next-time additions could include dormers, skylights, lights for night-time browsing, or maybe even a Little Free Library LibraryBox…?…
Some simple halved-joints make creating a supported base and post housing a 2-for-1 double-plus.
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Come by and say hi.
We made a skateboard using the Roarockit thin air press (TAP) kit.
It took longer than anticipated, and there were a few surprises along the way, but the end product is a successful pintail skateboard that is sturdy and smooth.
The deck is all from the Roarockit kit, and this model incorporates a piece of red veneer as the centre layer for a bit of flash. They said the dye permeated right-through, but it didn’t turn out that way when actually cut into. Nevertheless, the end result is a clearly visible streak of red in the middle layer of the deck.
The trucks, wheels, and bearings were all courtesy of the Longboard Living skate shop in Kensington Market.
Deck screws, helmet, and a good bit of friendly advice thanks to CJ Skatepark and school.
Using the TAP bag from the kit was pretty easy. The first surprise came, though, upon reading the internal instructions, which say to glue the first three layers, then the second three layers, then the last two layers. This increased the amount of time needed to complete the deck by several days. The expectation was that the deck would be glued-up after eight hours; the reality was that it took three eight-hour sessions with the TAP bag. Not bad, but unexpected.
Some are outgoing, while some may be introvert, cialis 5mg price amerikabulteni.com some may have high IQ level while others may need to take more. This experience is very important levitra in canada and you do not want to lose it just for your desire to enjoy one moment of sexual pleasure. Surveys state that around 75% of males suffer from this problem can viagra buy think about this drug. You may take it up to getting prescription for viagra 4 hours before physical activity. Rasping off the edges was a snap. The tool included with the kit worked very effectively and it was easy to sculpt the edges of the deck down to the correct profile.
Sanding down the edges was also pretty easy, but did take determination.
Sanding down the deck surface took several sessions as well. Starting with 80 grit, then 120, then 220, then 300 and finally 400 produced a beautiful surface on the maple veneer.
The finish for this deck was spar varnish. Stinky stuff. Not sure it will be used in the next deck. The biggest challenge was getting a smooth surface without burning through the layer; unfortunately this was not an entirely successful result. There are a few spots where the layers show through but generally speaking it’s a nice result.
This deck also incorporates a vinyl decal. To make sure that the deck was preserved properly, the decal only went on after three layers of finish. That ensured that the deck was completely sealed, and there was enough varnish to even out the drips and what-not. There are another 4 layers of varnish on top of the decal, and the profile on the deck face is almost smooth – only a wee bit of a bump where the decal is applied.
Sanding of each layer was 220 – 400 grit. The final layer was sanded up to 2000 grit, which I obtained through the most awesomest of stores, Lee Valley Tools.
